Christine Esposito, Managing Editor05.01.24
Rolling out a blockbuster ingredient nearly two decades in the making. Bestowing a multi-million-dollar gift to fund dermatological research. Deploying new tools like AI and taking to TikTok. These are just some of the measures high-profile players in skincare are taking to maintain their prominent spots in a marketplace that’s rife with competition—and rising demand.
Last year, makeup was the faster-growing prestige category based on dollar sales. But skincare was the fastest-growing based on units sold, per Circana.
And that’s what industry trackers are watching closely now in 2024.
“Unit growth tells a better story for demand,” said Larissa Jensen, global beauty industry advisor at Circana.
Per Jensen, omnichannel data shows that mass market skincare units were up 7%, and prestige units jumped 14% for the 12 months ended February 2024. For a detailed look at facial moisturizers in US multi-outlets, click here.
La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum treats localized hyperpigmentation and persistent dark spots, while improving skin tone uniformity. Formulated from research on 50,000 people, the serum has been proven effective for all skin tones and types, according to L’Oréal. It contains the Melasyl pigment inhibitor/blocker as well as 10% niacinamide, retinyl palmitate, LHA E and carnosine.
La Roche-Posay MelaB3 UV, a moisturizer with SPF 30, is made for all skin types and helps protect skin against visible signs of sun damage caused by UVA and UVB exposure. And, it is also powered by Melasyl and 5% niacinamide, which work in tandem to improve the appearance of dark spots.
“Melasyl is an ingredient with unique properties, and developing the Mela B3 serum is a testament to our researchers’ unique expertise and knowledge,” Sanford Browne, president of Research & Innovation (R&I) for L’Oréal Groupe’s North America Zone, told Happi.
“By understanding and controlling the physicochemical characteristics of each ingredient in the formula, we achieved Melasyl’s stability, ensured its effectiveness and safety, and optimized the sensory experience of the final product,” he added.
The development is meeting a key need. According to a global study on pigmentation, nearly half of the people worldwide experience at least one pigmentation disorder, including localized excess pigmentation, which impacts quality of life and leads to stigmatization, according to L’Oréal.
“Melasyl, which is protected by more than 20 patents, is a prime example of our commitment to scientific excellence and dedication to creating innovative and inclusive solutions that address consumers’ needs worldwide,” Browne said.
While La Roche-Posay is the first L’Oréal brand to harness the new ingredient, it won’t be the only. According to Browne, L’Oréal Paris and Vichy will follow with future launches that incorporate this new molecule.
While its name is new, Kenvue has decades of research in aging skin—including launching the first prescription retinoid in 1971. Company officials also note that it was the first to perfect the process of stabilizing retinol and introducing it in the US, filing its first retinol patent in 1990.
“Retinol is the number one dermatologist-recommended anti-aging cosmetic ingredient available over-the-counter and is sought after by consumers,” said Menas Kizoulis, Kenvue senior director of global scientific engagement.
“But, not all retinol products are created equal,” he said.
According to Kizoulis, it is hard to formulate and stabilize. “Kenvue has specific expertise here with over 30 years’ experience formulating and patenting retinol products. This study shows how effective our well-formulated, stabilized bioactive retinol formulations drive clinical skin health benefits,” he asserted.
The patented formulas Kizoulis references allow for a slower release of retinol to the skin.
Kenvue’s analysis included six vehicle-controlled studies of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in women 30 years of age or older who had mild to moderate signs of photodamage from ultraviolet light. Across all the studies, using a numerical scale, a single dermatologist investigator assessed overall facial photodamage and site-specific photodamage such as forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet and dark spots at baseline and at weeks four, eight and 12. Tolerability was also assessed. A total of 237 participants received daily treatment with retinol while 234 received vehicle alone.
Researchers found that retinol induced greater improvements from baseline in all signs of photoaging compared with vehicle, with changes evident as early as week four and continuing through week 12. Among the few participants who experienced irritation, all events were mild to moderate and transient, and the authors concluded retinol and its vehicle were both well tolerated through 12 weeks, with no severe signs of irritation, according to Kenvue.
The study’s lead author, Patricia K. Farris, MD, said the vehicle-controlled analysis provided compelling new evidence that this ingredient effectively reduces the signs of skin aging without irritation. Dr. Farris—a clinical associate professor in the Department of Dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine and a practicing dermatologist in Louisiana—said the findings provide additional support for the use of products such as Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair line, which contains 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol.
The Estée Lauder Companies brand has committed $5 million over seven years for the advancement and evolution of allergy science through the partnership and founding of the Center. Those funds will be used to recruit physicians and scientists, and provide resources for the most advanced equipment, clinical and laboratory space and key support staff.
The Center will “develop forward-thinking research in dermatology,” exploring the biological underpinnings of how skin ages, skin allergies and inflammatory or eczematous skin conditions, including eczema (or atopic dermatitis) and contact dermatitis, according to Clinique.
The Center’s research aims to uncover scientific findings to accelerate the creation of new topical and systemic treatments that help alleviate allergic skin conditions. The priority, according to the stakeholders, is to bridge basic science with practical application in the clinic to improve people’s lives through healthy skin.
By investigating healthy skin, along with the skin of those with atopic dermatitis and other allergic skin disorders, the researchers may learn how to significantly slow the visible signs of aging in all people as well as in patients with eczema, who show signs of premature or accelerated aging. Studies will include all ages, genders, races and ethnicities and will also investigate the effects of factors such as diet, exercise, and stress on the skin of healthy people, according to Clinique.
Mount Sinai contends that with Clinique’s support, critical breakthroughs will be fast-tracked.
“Years of chronic inflamed skin plays a role in premature aging. Extensive research has helped us understand the molecular map of skin conditions associated with allergy such as eczema and contact dermatitis, and we’re now at a pivotal point in addressing these conditions and more,” said Dr. Emma Guttman, MD, PhD, Waldman Professor and System Chair, Department of Dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine. “With Clinique’s support, we will continue to actively explore targeted approaches to reversing eczematous and allergic skin conditions with the goal of creating and sustaining healthy skin. In turn, we want to use this understanding to address and prevent the process of age-related inflammation or ‘inflammaging’ in the first place.”
The alliance harkens to Clinique’s dermatology roots. So does its more recent endeavor: the formation of its first social Derm Creator Council—seven dermatologists who will elevate the brand’s social positioning and “extend education of dermatologist-guided solutions for remarkable skin results.”
Council members include Dr. Charles Puza, Dr. Jean Charles, Dr. Jenny Liu, Dr. Lindsey Zubritsky, Dr. Mamina Turgegano, Dr. Mara Weinstein and Dr. Nkem Ugonabo. Based across the US, they are said to specialize in different areas expertise and will complement Clinique’s leadership across various skin concerns, according to the brand.
Their focus will be on creating “edutaining content” around skin concerns for skincare and makeup, consumer questions and myth busting, as well as consultancy on timely “derm relevant” content opportunities for Clinique channels.
For Clinique, the dermatologists will help engage new consumers and educate them about skin health, focusing GenZ.
In one marketing campaign, it enlisted the technology to help show consumers the benefits of using Olay.
“We wanted to test how this AI Aging technology would predict our participants’ current age based on an old photo versus how they actually look after using Olay products for years,” said Shannon Weitz, senior scientist at Olay.
According to Weitz, with Canfield Scientific, P&G curated a “purpose field model with data that covers 1,250 female subjects, aged 10-80 and ranging across ethnicities and skin tones. Each face was captured to show three models that were used to build a simulation able to age or de-age a 2D image of a female subject’s face. From the data collected by the subject’s, simulated images were validated by a cloud-based age estimator and accurately show how a subject would be expected to age.”
Said Weitz, technology’s “accuracy is improved because it utilizes imaging based on the person’s actual age and ethnicity, which is really unique. Previously developed technology uses a one size fits all approach.”
“Consumers are looking for proven results from their skincare products. With so many products available that all tout similar results, it can be overwhelming to decide which product to try. Effectively and easily showing the results from your products is key to winning over consumers,” added Olay Principal Scientist Dr. Rolanda Wilkerson.
And what “results” look like varies demographically. For example, women going through menopause are going to look for hydration as their skin begins to feel drier, whereas women in their late 30’s-early 40’s might be looking for a product to help lift or tighten their skin as they experience light skin sagging and even fine lines for the first time, according to Dr. Wilkerson.
Olay officials reported that Super Serum, which debuted in the second half of 2023, has become one of the brand’s most awarded products.
“Its formula is packed with a quintet of heavy-hitting ingredients including activated niacinamide, vitamin C, collagen peptide, vitamin E, and AHA,” said Dr. Wilkerson, “Activated niacinamide in particular is an ingredient that’s an Olay breakthrough. With a lower pH that works effectively with the skin, the ingredient offers best-in-class even skin tone efficacy and improves skin texture. The activated niacinamide not only provides faster results but also long-lasting benefits, delivering two months of visible skin improvement in two weeks,” she said.
Results are what matters most today’s skin care market. Consumers’ expectations are heightened—and they are willing try an array of brands—whether they found the serum on the shelf or heard about it from a dermatologist on TikTok.
It is all part of the democratization of skin care, which began during the pandemic and has carried through into 2024.
“Consumers really learned that they don’t need to pay a lot to get results,” asserted Jensen of Circana.
Last year, makeup was the faster-growing prestige category based on dollar sales. But skincare was the fastest-growing based on units sold, per Circana.
And that’s what industry trackers are watching closely now in 2024.
“Unit growth tells a better story for demand,” said Larissa Jensen, global beauty industry advisor at Circana.
Per Jensen, omnichannel data shows that mass market skincare units were up 7%, and prestige units jumped 14% for the 12 months ended February 2024. For a detailed look at facial moisturizers in US multi-outlets, click here.
Playing The Long Game
The timing couldn’t be better for L’Oréal. The beauty giant recently debuted Melasyl, a breakthrough molecule for discoloration and dark spots that is incorporated into a new serum and new anti-aging moisturizer sold under the La Roche-Posay umbrella. The arrival of this new component comes after 18 years of R&D conducted by L’Oréal.La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum treats localized hyperpigmentation and persistent dark spots, while improving skin tone uniformity. Formulated from research on 50,000 people, the serum has been proven effective for all skin tones and types, according to L’Oréal. It contains the Melasyl pigment inhibitor/blocker as well as 10% niacinamide, retinyl palmitate, LHA E and carnosine.
La Roche-Posay MelaB3 UV, a moisturizer with SPF 30, is made for all skin types and helps protect skin against visible signs of sun damage caused by UVA and UVB exposure. And, it is also powered by Melasyl and 5% niacinamide, which work in tandem to improve the appearance of dark spots.
“Melasyl is an ingredient with unique properties, and developing the Mela B3 serum is a testament to our researchers’ unique expertise and knowledge,” Sanford Browne, president of Research & Innovation (R&I) for L’Oréal Groupe’s North America Zone, told Happi.
“By understanding and controlling the physicochemical characteristics of each ingredient in the formula, we achieved Melasyl’s stability, ensured its effectiveness and safety, and optimized the sensory experience of the final product,” he added.
The development is meeting a key need. According to a global study on pigmentation, nearly half of the people worldwide experience at least one pigmentation disorder, including localized excess pigmentation, which impacts quality of life and leads to stigmatization, according to L’Oréal.
“Melasyl, which is protected by more than 20 patents, is a prime example of our commitment to scientific excellence and dedication to creating innovative and inclusive solutions that address consumers’ needs worldwide,” Browne said.
While La Roche-Posay is the first L’Oréal brand to harness the new ingredient, it won’t be the only. According to Browne, L’Oréal Paris and Vichy will follow with future launches that incorporate this new molecule.
New Retinol Research
Kenvue—parent to Neutrogena and Aveeno skincare—has released new efficacy and tolerability data on retinol. The company published its results in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology last month. The clinical assessment is said to be the largest published in scientific literature on this workhorse ingredient with a fan base that spans from the lab to the derm office to the cosmetics counter.While its name is new, Kenvue has decades of research in aging skin—including launching the first prescription retinoid in 1971. Company officials also note that it was the first to perfect the process of stabilizing retinol and introducing it in the US, filing its first retinol patent in 1990.
“Retinol is the number one dermatologist-recommended anti-aging cosmetic ingredient available over-the-counter and is sought after by consumers,” said Menas Kizoulis, Kenvue senior director of global scientific engagement.
“But, not all retinol products are created equal,” he said.
According to Kizoulis, it is hard to formulate and stabilize. “Kenvue has specific expertise here with over 30 years’ experience formulating and patenting retinol products. This study shows how effective our well-formulated, stabilized bioactive retinol formulations drive clinical skin health benefits,” he asserted.
The patented formulas Kizoulis references allow for a slower release of retinol to the skin.
Kenvue’s analysis included six vehicle-controlled studies of 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol in women 30 years of age or older who had mild to moderate signs of photodamage from ultraviolet light. Across all the studies, using a numerical scale, a single dermatologist investigator assessed overall facial photodamage and site-specific photodamage such as forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet and dark spots at baseline and at weeks four, eight and 12. Tolerability was also assessed. A total of 237 participants received daily treatment with retinol while 234 received vehicle alone.
Researchers found that retinol induced greater improvements from baseline in all signs of photoaging compared with vehicle, with changes evident as early as week four and continuing through week 12. Among the few participants who experienced irritation, all events were mild to moderate and transient, and the authors concluded retinol and its vehicle were both well tolerated through 12 weeks, with no severe signs of irritation, according to Kenvue.
The study’s lead author, Patricia K. Farris, MD, said the vehicle-controlled analysis provided compelling new evidence that this ingredient effectively reduces the signs of skin aging without irritation. Dr. Farris—a clinical associate professor in the Department of Dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine and a practicing dermatologist in Louisiana—said the findings provide additional support for the use of products such as Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair line, which contains 0.1% stabilized bioactive retinol.
Advancing Dermatology
Clinique earlier this year announced a new philanthropic partnership with the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York to create the Mount Sinai-Clinique Healthy Skin Dermatology Center.The Estée Lauder Companies brand has committed $5 million over seven years for the advancement and evolution of allergy science through the partnership and founding of the Center. Those funds will be used to recruit physicians and scientists, and provide resources for the most advanced equipment, clinical and laboratory space and key support staff.
The Center will “develop forward-thinking research in dermatology,” exploring the biological underpinnings of how skin ages, skin allergies and inflammatory or eczematous skin conditions, including eczema (or atopic dermatitis) and contact dermatitis, according to Clinique.
The Center’s research aims to uncover scientific findings to accelerate the creation of new topical and systemic treatments that help alleviate allergic skin conditions. The priority, according to the stakeholders, is to bridge basic science with practical application in the clinic to improve people’s lives through healthy skin.
By investigating healthy skin, along with the skin of those with atopic dermatitis and other allergic skin disorders, the researchers may learn how to significantly slow the visible signs of aging in all people as well as in patients with eczema, who show signs of premature or accelerated aging. Studies will include all ages, genders, races and ethnicities and will also investigate the effects of factors such as diet, exercise, and stress on the skin of healthy people, according to Clinique.
Mount Sinai contends that with Clinique’s support, critical breakthroughs will be fast-tracked.
“Years of chronic inflamed skin plays a role in premature aging. Extensive research has helped us understand the molecular map of skin conditions associated with allergy such as eczema and contact dermatitis, and we’re now at a pivotal point in addressing these conditions and more,” said Dr. Emma Guttman, MD, PhD, Waldman Professor and System Chair, Department of Dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine. “With Clinique’s support, we will continue to actively explore targeted approaches to reversing eczematous and allergic skin conditions with the goal of creating and sustaining healthy skin. In turn, we want to use this understanding to address and prevent the process of age-related inflammation or ‘inflammaging’ in the first place.”
The alliance harkens to Clinique’s dermatology roots. So does its more recent endeavor: the formation of its first social Derm Creator Council—seven dermatologists who will elevate the brand’s social positioning and “extend education of dermatologist-guided solutions for remarkable skin results.”
Council members include Dr. Charles Puza, Dr. Jean Charles, Dr. Jenny Liu, Dr. Lindsey Zubritsky, Dr. Mamina Turgegano, Dr. Mara Weinstein and Dr. Nkem Ugonabo. Based across the US, they are said to specialize in different areas expertise and will complement Clinique’s leadership across various skin concerns, according to the brand.
Their focus will be on creating “edutaining content” around skin concerns for skincare and makeup, consumer questions and myth busting, as well as consultancy on timely “derm relevant” content opportunities for Clinique channels.
For Clinique, the dermatologists will help engage new consumers and educate them about skin health, focusing GenZ.
Incorporating Artificial Intelligence
Mass market giant Olay is harnessing AI.In one marketing campaign, it enlisted the technology to help show consumers the benefits of using Olay.
“We wanted to test how this AI Aging technology would predict our participants’ current age based on an old photo versus how they actually look after using Olay products for years,” said Shannon Weitz, senior scientist at Olay.
According to Weitz, with Canfield Scientific, P&G curated a “purpose field model with data that covers 1,250 female subjects, aged 10-80 and ranging across ethnicities and skin tones. Each face was captured to show three models that were used to build a simulation able to age or de-age a 2D image of a female subject’s face. From the data collected by the subject’s, simulated images were validated by a cloud-based age estimator and accurately show how a subject would be expected to age.”
Said Weitz, technology’s “accuracy is improved because it utilizes imaging based on the person’s actual age and ethnicity, which is really unique. Previously developed technology uses a one size fits all approach.”
“Consumers are looking for proven results from their skincare products. With so many products available that all tout similar results, it can be overwhelming to decide which product to try. Effectively and easily showing the results from your products is key to winning over consumers,” added Olay Principal Scientist Dr. Rolanda Wilkerson.
And what “results” look like varies demographically. For example, women going through menopause are going to look for hydration as their skin begins to feel drier, whereas women in their late 30’s-early 40’s might be looking for a product to help lift or tighten their skin as they experience light skin sagging and even fine lines for the first time, according to Dr. Wilkerson.
Olay officials reported that Super Serum, which debuted in the second half of 2023, has become one of the brand’s most awarded products.
“Its formula is packed with a quintet of heavy-hitting ingredients including activated niacinamide, vitamin C, collagen peptide, vitamin E, and AHA,” said Dr. Wilkerson, “Activated niacinamide in particular is an ingredient that’s an Olay breakthrough. With a lower pH that works effectively with the skin, the ingredient offers best-in-class even skin tone efficacy and improves skin texture. The activated niacinamide not only provides faster results but also long-lasting benefits, delivering two months of visible skin improvement in two weeks,” she said.
Results are what matters most today’s skin care market. Consumers’ expectations are heightened—and they are willing try an array of brands—whether they found the serum on the shelf or heard about it from a dermatologist on TikTok.
It is all part of the democratization of skin care, which began during the pandemic and has carried through into 2024.
“Consumers really learned that they don’t need to pay a lot to get results,” asserted Jensen of Circana.